Introduction: How to Make a Minecraft TNT Cannon
This tutorial will be showing you how to make both a simple TNT cannon and a full auto TNT cannon with dispensers.
Step 1: General Layout
These two pictures show the general layout of the TNT cannon with a bird's eye view onto it. If you are accustomed with Minecraft and understand all of this you can simply go ahead to creating it from here on, based on these pictures. For materials you will need the following:
solid blocks, best are obsidian, end stone or bedrock if you are in creative mode.
-8 TNT (for each individual explosion)
Make sure you have all these materials before beginning.
Step 2: Foundation
To start off you will build a 10x4 rectangle from some kind of solid blocks, best for this is obsidian as it will not break if the explosions sets of without the water stopping it from damage. Then you remove the strip of 8 blocks that you can see in the birds eye view. This is where later on the TNT is placed. Do not put in the TNT yet though. Continue by placing 2 more solid blocks onto the front two blocks off the left side. Next add a fence at the end off the gap and put a carpet/pressure plate on top off it. Add redstone in the places show . Next, add water to the very last block of the strip of air. If done correctly, you will end up with a water stream that goes right to the fence and stop there. Later on this will make sure the TNT does not blow up the blocks you use. If you want you can also add blocks underneath the water stream and fence.
Step 3: The Redstone Components
For this step simply follow the screenshot setup. You will need a total of 12 redstone dust, 10 repeaters and a button. Add the repeaters in the spots the picture shows, then place the redstone dust and add a button to the opposite side of the block with the water stream. Then set each of the repeaters to the highest setting possible (4 in game ticks)
Step 4: Setting Up the TNT
As seen in the above picture, the TNT will be placed along the water stream and one TNT on top of the carpet. Always remember!: DO NEVER PLACE TNT INTO THE WATER SOURCE BLOCK, this will just make your cannon explode as the water will later flow through the primed TNT, which it cannot do if you take away the source block. I also have a tutorial for the same concept just with an automatic aspect following this, If you liked my first tutorial then definitely look at it as well and maybe be inspired.
Step 5: TNT Cannon #2, Automatic Firing Cannon
This is the second, and more advanced TNT cannon which fires automatically for you, which means you only have to add as much TNT as you have into dispensers once and then just press a button. This is based on a redstone clock and dispensers, which is a kind of advanced subject in Minecraft, but I explain every single step clearly so you can follow even if you do not know what these are. FOr this second TNT cannon you will need all of the objects in the second picture:
solid blocks (Again any you want but obsidian, end stone and bedrock would be best because of their high blast resistance in case anything goes wrong)
-8 TNT for one explosion (As this is a full auto cannon you will want more to experience its full potential)
Step 6: General Layout
As before, we will start with a general 10x4 block foundation, in which you delete the 9 blocks as seen in the picture. Next, add water to the very last block inside of the indent and put a fence on the edge of the water. Put a carpet on top of the fence. This tutorial will also be color coded later on so I can easier explain the certain aspects in the next steps.
Step 7: First Dispensers and Extra Blocks
For the next step you will be adding some more solid blocks in the positions that you can see the orange wool in. This acts as a color code so I can more easily show you which blocks I mean, in which case for you these blocks would be the ones you chose as your solid blocks. Then, add the dispensers. Each of the has to be between the orange blocks and one block above them as well. Also you will move your whole row of these back by one from the original design so that the last TNT will touch the sourceblock of water. In this case this is not bad as the TNT is already primed when you put it in. Also this time dont place your repeater next to the launching tnt, which is going to be at the fenct. You can see this on the picture. After you do this, add blocks in the spot where the green wool is on the third picture. This is a 2x3 field which will hold aditional redstone later. Lastly add blocks in the position where the red wool is on the picture. This will be where the dispenser is later placed at and it also holds some redstone.
Step 8: The Redstone Aspect
This is the redstone aspect of the TNT cannon, not yet the clock. As seen in the first picture create a line of redstone accross the dispensers (Crouch so you do not access their inventory when right clicking the dispensers). And add a repeater so it faces the block behind the dispensers. Do not set any ticks on this repeater. Next you will add the redstone that leads to the launching TNT. For this place repeaters along the outside of the foundation, connected by a bit of redstone dust on the corner. These will all be set to full ticks. Now we come to the green part. As in the third picture. First connect the repeaters from the previous picture to the first repeater on the green field. Put another redstone dust behind it on the corner and connect this to the next repeater. Then we come to the red part of the build. For this, add a dispenser on top of the open block above the fence, as you can see in the picture and then connect up the redstone dust which then leads into a repeater that will power the dispenser. Both the repeaters on the green and red wool should not have the ticks set from the default 1 tick. Technically you are finished here, and you can use it as a semi-automatic cannon without a clock. For this just add a button the the end of the orange part and press it every single time you want to shoot. Be careful though, do not press the button before the last shot already went off, to not overload the system. If you want to make it fully automatic, follow on to the next step.
Step 9: The Clock
This is the last step in my tutorial on the TNT cannons. For this you will connect up 11 repeaters leading up to the little end tail part of the orange wool segment. These will all the set to full ticks. Then connect a line of redstone dust up from the redstone dust of the orange segment back around the repeater way and link the two lines up with another repeater as seen in picture 3. This repeater will control how fast your cannon is shooting: the higher the tick number, the lower the rate it shoots at. Last add a block with a button to the end of the repeater line. Then fill up the dispensers and press the button. Recheck your work and press the button to start launching TNT. To stop it launching just delete the connecting and speed controlling repeater until the redstone signal has totally shut down, then replace it. Thank you for taking your time on my tutorial I hope you enjoyed it and have a great time with your new TNT Cannon'(s)
5 People Made This Project!
Did you make this project? Share it with us!
Lamps and Lighting Contest
Minecraft launcher tutorial download, how to make a minecraft tnt launcher, simple redstone minecraft tnt launcher, minecraft tnt launcher tutorial, minecraft tnt launcher the best, minecraft tnt launcher wikihow, minecraft tnt launchers, how to make minecraft tnt launcher, how to build a minecraft tnt launcher, minecraft tnt cannon, minecraft tnt mod, minecraft tnt wars server, minecraft tnt song, minecraft tnt recipe, minecraft tnt wars, minecraft tnt printable, minecraft tnt cake, minecraft tnt explosion, minecraft tnt block,
Related Posts To Minecraft Tnt Launcher Tutorial
Minecraft Tnt Launcher Tutorial Rating: Posted by: sinatruman
- 8 mile movie quotes
- Converting quadratic equations between standard and vertex form worksheet answers
- Gravitation ex read online
- 2002 chevrolet cavalier reviews
- Tpms valve stem autozone
Introduction: How to Make a Minecraft TNT Cannon
As my second minecraft instructable I will be showing you how to make an extremely powerful TNT cannon, which can fire a single TNT ammunition over a distance of m.
To make this you will need: redstone dust, any kind of solid block (I used granite), repeaters, a button, a bucket of water, any kind of half slab and TNT.
Step 1: The Base
Get started with an 8 by 3 by 1 base. Now make a ring on top of the base leaving out the end block.
Now make a one block wide strip on the left side, place a half slab at the open end and a bucket of water at the closed off end as shown.
Step 3: Covering the Water
Cover the water by placing and breaking the blocks as shown.
Step 4: The Redstone
Place a button on the back of the block, then place redstone dust as in pic 3.
Step 5: More Redstone
Place 6 repeaters on the right side of the cannon with two dust at the end. On the left side, place redstone dust all the way down the side, missing out the end block.
Step 6: Firing
To load and fire it, just lay down TNT in the water and on the half slab. Now press the button and stand back.
I found that the tnt that was being fired, was being lit too quickly, so I set all the repeaters to three ticks-shown in pic 5.
Hope you all enjoyed this build as there will be many more to come:)
Be the First to Share
Did you make this project? Share it with us!
Please expand the tutorial to include this information. Further details may exist on the talk page.
A TNT cannon is a mechanism that uses TNT or minecarts with TNT to launch primed TNT or other entities.
Here is a video covering some general types of TNT cannons and is a good introduction to them. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dtgMokm-8IQ
Note: these (as the whole article) talk mostly about the classical TNT cannons that work by shooting TNT by using other TNT blocks as charge. As of , it is also possible to build a TNT cannon that works with pistons and slime blocks.
- Body, or housing
- Charge wiring
- Shot wiring
- Other wiring
- Condensing charge
- Explosion housing
- Mounting block
- TNT cannons operate on the principle that when TNT explodes in water it will not destroy blocks, but will still launch entities, including TNT that was already ignited, which is usually done with redstone (the charge is usually ignited immediately, then after a delay the shot is released).
- The shot is the ammunition; it can be a player, a mob, a piece of TNT, arrows, sand/gravel or anvils.
- If raiding, make sure (unless you are using a hybrid TNT cannon) that the shot does not land in water.
- The charge is an amount of TNT used to propel the shot.
- The charge (if you are just playing or testing) should land (TNT will fall when activated) and explode in water, otherwise the explosion will destroy nearby scenery and damage nearby mobs.
- To properly fire an active shot (and avoid destroying your cannon), you need to be sure that your charge activates before the shot is activated. Since the charge is housed in water it will not destroy your cannon, but the shot is not housed in water when activated, so it will destroy nearby blocks and injure nearby mobs.
- Redstone is used to activate every charge TNT simultaneously with the exception of compressor charges, which are discussed in the appropriate section.
- TNT cannons can also fire up to 12 pieces of TNT with a cannon made by Creeperface_
- For maximum range, you want there to be an about 30 degree trajectory but with the least possible amount of matter (blocks) in between the charge and the shot, that way more of the charge's explosion reaches the shot.
- So it's best for TNT cannons to be elevated off the ground depending on the wanted range of the cannon.
- For shooting arrows, sand/gravel, anvils, or mobs, a piston might be needed to drop the said ammunition.
There are 2 types of cannon names: The "common name" gives a picture of what the cannon can do and how easy it is to build. The "technical name" gives the specifics of the cannon, like how much delay the redstone repeaters have.
The common name of a TNT cannon is a short numerical description followed by the cannon's nickname. It is useful for comparison of two cannons and gives the reader an idea of what the cannon can do at a glance.
The common name of a cannon consists of five parts: the damage value (DV), the ergonomic value (EV), the TNT amount (TA), the maximum range (MR), and the nickname. They appear in this order:
- Damage value
Damage values show how "good" a cannon is, the higher the value, the better it is. It is calculated as the average of three values: accuracy, power and speed.
The accuracy value is calculated from the accuracy input, which is the average of the distances from the explosions generated from the shots to the average of their positions.
In the image to the right, the accuracy input is the average of the lengths of the blue lines. The red dot is the average of the positions of the explosions, and an endpoint of each of the blue lines, the others being the explosions. The accuracy value equation is , where "A" is the accuracy input.
The power value is the number of TNT in the shot times ten.
The speed input is the distance between the front of the cannon to the average position of the centers of the explosions. The speed value equation is S/5, where "S" is the speed input.
The damage value is calculated using this equation: .
- Ergonomic value
Ergonomic value tells how hard a cannon is to build, higher values signifying easier build. It is the average of the construction, redstone, and TNT values.
The construction input is an estimate of the number of blocks in the cannon, excluding fire, water, air, and TNT. The construction value is , assuming "B" is the construction input.
The redstone value is ten minus an estimate from one to ten of the complexity of the redstone, times ten; , where "R" is the estimate.
The TNT value is , and "T" is the number of TNT needed to operate the cannon at maximum capacity.
The whole equation to calculate the EV is .
TNT amount, maximum range, and nickname are pretty self-explanatory, but to clarify, the TA is the same as the TNT value of the EV, and the MR is the distance from the front of the cannon to the farthest explosion.
The nickname is whatever you name it, assuming it's not profane, and nobody else has already named a similar cannon.
This is how the Basic cannon was named.Damage value = (((45 - 0)*2) + (1*10) + (/5)) / 3 = 40 Ergonomic value = (( - 50)/10 + ((10 - 2)*10) + ((50 - 8)*2)) / 3 = 86 Basic
A cannon's technical name should give its readers a complete picture of its function, use, and method of operation. While it is impossible to anticipate every innovation in TNT cannon technologies, most cannons will benefit from using these standards in their technical names.
- The first number in a technical TNT cannon name designates how many horizontal rows(layers) of TNT it has for the charge. The example cannon has 1.
- The next number is the amount of shot TNT. Again, the example cannon has 1.
- Next, the number designates how many charge blocks of TNT the cannon has.
- If there is a TNT condensation system, after the charge number, write a decimal point, then the amount of condensation charge TNT. If there is no such TNT, write 0 instead.
- A list of how many repeaters there are, and how much they are set to. E.g. If you have 10 repeaters set to 4 (which is the maximum setting), you would list R If there are no repeaters, you would write an M for manual.
- The mounting block is designated by a code: 0 or 1 for no block, 2 for full block, 3 for slab, 4 for ladder, glass pane, or iron bar, 5 for trapdoor, 6 for fence post and pressure plate, 7 for piston.
- If the cannon does something special, like shoot vertically, or does a spread shot, write that after the mounting block code.
- The nickname of the cannon goes here.
The featured TNT cannon above would be named RM2.
As discussed in basic concepts, there are many parts of a TNT cannon.
- Consider using a common material, such as cobblestone.
- In multiplayer, when firing against another cannon, try to use materials with higher blast resistance. (For more on TNT cannon defenses, look below)
- Another factor is visibility, which is one commonly overlooked. When making a cannon out of obsidian, it is hard to see redstone, and that can lead to fatal errors. On the other end, when setting up an ambush in the jungle, it is best not to make your cannon out of orange wool or lapis.
- Consider using a common material, such as cobblestone.
- There are two main sets of wiring in a cannon, the charge wiring which activates the charge, and the shot wiring that activates the shot.
- Without any repeaters, which can be hard to get, a cannon is designated as manual, with 2 redstone power sources/blocks, such as buttons. For a manual cannon, the materials are simple, just a redstone wire that connects the charge to a redstone emitting item, and a wire that connects the shot to a redstone power source. However, this requires skill so as not to misfire, you must know when to activate each button.
- With repeaters it is a different story. The maximum amount of time between the charge activating and the shot activating is ten repeaters set to 4. That will also bring you maximum range, will only require one redstone power source, and will require no skill to fire correctly.
- There are two main sets of wiring in a cannon, the charge wiring which activates the charge, and the shot wiring that activates the shot.
- Mounting block
- Mounting blocks (described below) are only certain special blocks.
- Explosion housing
- Unless it's a dry cannon, this must be water or lava (in the latter case, only source blocks). The liquid prevents the cannon and any other surrounding blocks from being destroyed.
In creative mode, there is no reason to build a TNT cannon for warfare, but is the optimal mode for testing and developing cannons.
In factions raiding with TNT cannons is the most common way of getting into a base. There are two main methods. The first (on servers where enabled) is to airburst. This only works on obsidian with water outside. The cannon shot must have a delay so the explosion reaches the obsidian but the primed TNT must not be in the water. These cannons will not work on other walls. The other method is with hybrid cannons which are explained below. The basic hybrid is one of the most commonly used raiding cannons.
Limitations, and ways to possibly get around them
The five big, main limits to TNT cannon engineering are:
- That no matter what you do, a TNT will explode approximately 4 seconds or 8 flashes after being primed. The way to sidestep this is to make the TNT fly faster, but that leads us to limit 2.
- Minecraft can only take so much, and entities flying at escape velocity around your Minecraft world can cause it to crash. Another thing that can cause crashes of your Minecraft is large amounts of impulse charges detonating in unison. With the allotted GB of RAM, the max TNT is about The way to possibly sidestep is to increase the RAM allowed for Minecraft, although that is not recommended for lower end computers.
- TNT has a 7 block detonation radius, so just making a large cannon is a waste of time. Beyond 9 charges, the TNT is wasted. However, this can be sidestepped by either adding more vertical rows of charge to your cannon, adding a charge condensing system to your cannon, or a combination of them both.
- TNT flows with the water while in it. This can be good or bad, depending on the situation. The way to sidestep this is to use water source blocks, and don't place any TNT inside it.
- If you make a vertical cannon too powerful, it will fly up too fast and high meaning it will crash your game. This can be sidestepped by decreasing the power of said cannon, or making it semi-vertical. That way you can go up and sideways.
Cannon sizes and special features
The default definition of cannon size is how many TNT are in the shot or how far it fires. If you are talking about compact cannons, you might be talking about literally the size of the cannon (e.g. how much space it takes up) or if you are talking about cannons meant for mass destruction, you might be talking about the size of the shot. But usually, people mean charge mass.
A small cannon, such as a MM3 cannon, only has a very small range, and is meant for stopping large amounts of rushing players or mobs.
A medium cannon, such as the RM2 is meant for setting up as a first line sieger, to be set up and aimed at a target such as supplies or a wall while one has arrow cover, or to be set up as an anti-archer cannon.
A large cannon, such as the RM3 is for attacking from a distance, a borderline long range mortar, an anti-cannon defense, a second line sieger, and many other uses.
A sniper cannon, such as the RM6 is for a tent line sieger, setting up to shell opponents camp when they can't even see the cannon shelling them, and other out-of-sight range tasks such as that.
And of course, mass demo cannons, such as the MM6 spread-shot, which is used to completely mutilate any defenses whatsoever.
Players also like to add features to their cannons including:
- Multiple shots 
- Semi-automatic/fully-automatic firing and reloading 
- Condenser charge (another set of TNT that explodes, pushing the charge towards the front of the cannon to increase the propulsion force.)
- Safety features, such as a blast shield to protect players/mobs from damage caused by the charge exploding
- Adjustable shot delay
- Alternative ammo, such as arrows, sand/gravel, or anvils 
- Dry cannon: building a cannon from explosion-resistant material to simplify design, maintenance, and potentially improve firing distance (dry cannons fire farther than their wet counterparts, all other factors being the same). See below for construction details.
- Cannons that fire in a special direction, such as up or diagonally
- Adjustable range, trajectory and direction (aimable cannons)
- Spread shot/mass destruction cannons
- Shotgun-like charges
Because the force from an explosion is weaker the further away from its source, TNT placed more than 7 blocks from the projectile have little to no effect. To remedy this problem a condenser charge may be used.
A condenser charge works by exploding slightly before the main charge, with the intention to push other primed TNTs towards the projectile. Since the main charge is closer to the projectile, it will be launched with more force.
Using pistons to push the main charge closer to the shot also does the same thing as a condenser charge, more complicated to build but more controllable. To work, the main charge must be primed, turning the solid TNT blocks into entities. Once they are entities, a series of pistons can push and concentrated all charges into a single block space behind the shot. In this system, you get far more efficient power from a given size of charge.
Care must be taken so that the pistons do not displace the water blocks protecting the cannon from TNT damage. To do this, one usually has to apply water a block above the area where the pistons would go into. It is also advised that the pistons should retract back into normal position before the main charge explodes, or your cannon might be destroyed. When the pistons extend, they create air spaces in the water no matter what, hence compromising the water's protection.
When a TNT charge is primed, it will usually shift slightly to one side, which can reduce the accuracy of otherwise well-designed cannons. A simple solution exists: add guide blocks so that there is a wall on either side of the TNT when it is primed. This will prevent the TNT from shifting left or right, resulting in a straighter shot, with less diagonal variance. If your design does not allow for this, you could just make the guide blocks one block higher, instead of being on either side of the TNT. This works because TNT will jump up, then go sideways in midair. Note that in most basic cannons, guide blocks should be transparent if the TNT cannon automatically primes the shot-otherwise, the redstone that ignites the charge will power the block next to the shot, and igniting the shot as well. If this explanation is unclear, look at this diagram:
In dry cannons, a guide block is almost a necessity because dry cannons tend to be inaccurate. However, dry cannon's guides are for directing the shot to be shot accurately, not to be primed accurately. However, guides can also decrease range if they are too long.
Shot mounting blocks
The shot mounting block for a cannon should be chosen according to how fast, far, and high you want the cannon to fire. Of course, these variables depend greatly on the position and amount of the charge and the timing of the shot, but the mounting block also can make a difference. For example, with a cannon with a charge of 5 and a delay of R, the shot will take a mortar trajectory with a ladder more than with a fence post and pressure plate.
A few things:
- Even though the shot mounting blocks ladder and full block are both the same height and fire a shot at the same trajectory, the ladder will consistently fire farther than the full block because the ladder has less matter in between the shot and the charge than the full block. This situation is the same for all mounting blocks, the slab and fence post with pressure plate also follow the same rule.
- There is a trade off: although the fence post and pressure plate fire the farthest, they are also expensive, while the slab is cheap and easy to get, as well as coming in many forms.
- The maximum range for any cannon can be achieved by altering the mounting block. A TNT shot will be fired farthest if it leaves the cannon at a 30 degree angle. So, if you want to just have your cannon go the farthest it can, use the slab, fence and pressure plate, or trapdoor mounting blocks. However, when faced with fortifications or terrain obstacles, the best idea would be to have a mounting block like piston, ladder, or single block that makes the TNT arc over the said obstacle. But, then again, it is fun to blast your way through things
- The following shot mounting blocks are tested and deemed safe. Feel free to experiment with mounting blocks, but keep in mind that some blocks, such as a lone pressure plate, will cause a mis fire of your cannon, and of course make it self-destruct.
A rewrite for most of these mounting blocks is coming soon.
|No mounting block||Highest velocity, simple, scalable||Poor range in smaller cannons, downward trajectory, line-of-sight only||When no mounting block is used, the shot is launched from the same level as the TNT. It will fire out completely horizontal, or 0°. Gravity will quickly pull the shot to the ground, giving a very flat, downwards trajectory. |
With small TNT charges, the range can be extremely limited. To increase the range, ever larger charges are needed or the cannon must be built higher above the ground. A larger charge means a higher velocity to the shot, pushing it farther away before it drops to the ground.
Players have been known to use up to 70 TNT charges and beyond. But economically, a cannon without a mounting block will take more TNT and longer to load for a certain range.
|Single block||Higher firing angle, can lob shots||Low velocity, reduced power and poor range for smaller cannons, and it won't go as far.||A single full size block such as cobblestone or obsidian is placed under the Shot. This has the effect of elevating the Shot above the water trough, so the blast force from the Charge is applied not just forward, but upwards. The shot is fired out at a high angle and trajectory. This is useful for hitting an elevated target, or one behind terrain or obstruction. |
However, part of the blast force is absorbed by a solid mounting block, so the cannon will suffer similar problems of needing large charge sizes. Also, since some of the energy is expelled in the upwards direction, forward shot velocity is reduced greatly.
A better alternative to the single mounting block is using a ladder instead.
|Slab||Smooth trajectory (not too high, not too low), average velocity, more efficient for small and medium cannons||Slightly reduced power, not best for either straight or lob shots, fuse range limit*||A slab is the compromise between a single block and no mounting, and generally more efficient than either. More of a cannon's blast force is directed forward, but there is still an upward vector that raises the angle of fire to roughly 30°. As with a single block, some of the blast energy is absorbed by the block, but much less. From the same TNT load, the half block has greater range than a single block or no block. |
When the TNT shot is initially placed over a half block, it will hang over it as if it was a full size block. Once the TNT has been "primed", it will fall down and sit on the true height of the slab.
The firing angle produced by a half block is good for extending the range of a cannon and hitting elevated targets, but its too low for effective lobbing over high walls and obstacles. For straight direct firing, shots fired with a half block mounting generally land level on the ground within a certain range. However, due to the limited fuse time of TNT in the game, scaling up the TNT charges up to a point will result in the shot flying too high and exploding in the air before it lands or reach the cannon's maximum range. This will be refer to as the "fuse range limit". All cannons are limited by the fuse range limit, but cannons firing at higher angles are especially prone to the fuse limit, as the shot velocity is lower and shots reach higher altitudes.
|Trapdoor||Closed: Optimized for flat trajectory, velocity almost the same as no-block, have a very large range meaning it can destroy far targets.||Be sure that priming circuit doesn't activate the trapdoor by accident. Very high speeds and oversized accurate shots could mean that if the primed TNT hits a nearby wall in the air, it will fall down and miss the shot. It cannot aim at medium or high elevated targets||If the firing angle of the half block is too high for your purpose, a closed trapdoor can be used instead. Like the half block, it provides some upward force to the shot by elevating it above the trough. A trapdoor's height, however, is 316th of a full block. Firing angle is roughly °, making it extremely effective for straight shots at very long range (+ blocks). |
Little forward velocity is lost when firing, and shot typically fly out at very high speeds. This combine with the low firing angle means cannons firing larger loads can extend their range without encountering too much fuse range problems as with the half block or ladder mounting.
|Open: Can be used in open position for higher firing angle, good scaling, can destroy higher targets|
|Ladder, Iron bars, Glass pane||Efficient with small and medium cannons, high firing angle, parabolic trajectory, good for lobbing shots and high altitude.||Low horizontal speed, poor scaling, limited range at ± blocks.||A ladder placed on the side can serve as a very effective mounting block for firing at high angles and lobbing shots. A primed shot will be supported by the edge thickness of the ladder, preventing it from falling into the trough. Because a ladder is not a full size block, none of the energy from the blast is absorbed, and the shot is propelled out at full force. By adding ladders above each other, different firing angles can be achieved. Typically, a single ladder will give an angle just higher than a half block, roughly 40°°. Two ladders will give an extremely parabolic flight, shots fly out at about 50°°. |
A good portion of the blast energy is directed upwards on the block, so horizontal speeds are generally much slower than a no-mount or half block mount cannon. In return, the cannon has no problem lobbing shots over terrain and walls. At larger charge loads, shots can reach very high altitudes.
However, this also means the fuse range limit is an inherent problem with this mounting. Within a block distance, well built cannons level with the ground can expect to land shots low enough to cause damage. But beyond this shots explode midair way beforehand, even with a shot primed at maximum fuse time with a delay circuit. Hence, one can't simply add more TNT to increase the range, as it will only make the shot fly higher. A basic solution is to put the cannon below ground, in a pit with a slanted slope to allow the shot to fly out. Since the shot had a lower starting point, it will explode closer to the ground once its fuse time runs out. To reach ranges beyond blocks, this solution becomes impractical.
|Fence||Efficient with small and medium cannons, low firing angle, good for shooting through caves and past overhanging base defenses. High velocity, extremely powerful in spread cannons and long range cannons.||Expensive materials, fuse range limit to bigger cannons. If used a condenser, then the explosion will send the TNT too high and with no ceiling, the TNT can destroy the cannon.||A fence placed at the end of the cannon tricks Minecraft to think that it is one block high, since it is only one and a half block high for the player's perspective. Therefore, the charge would be recognized as closer to the shot than it actually is. Since it gains more power and velocity, it appears to fly up a bit, then go down in an attack angle. However, the explosion launches the TNT upwards meaning if the cannon has no ceiling, the TNT can well destroy the cannon. This gives it a distinctive style of cannon shooting, and it is considered one of the most useful mounting blocks in Minecraft. |
if the cannon needs the water blocked a pressure plate may be used, but slightly decreases the launch velocity.
|Piston||Adjustable, when fully extended it has the same effects of a full block but is more efficient than it and is more versatile, compatible with firing sand or gravel.||Expensive, the shot has been subject to the fuse range delay limit found in arcing cannons, is used as a mortar MB so usage inside caves or buildings is not recommended and will result in short range shots, accidentally placing two TNT blocks (one on top of the other) will destroy the cannon, requires a R delay.||The three most common ways to use this mounting block are |
|Rarely used mounting blocks|
|Flower pot||Can lob shots.||Fuse range limit, expensive, cannot aim at lower targets|
|Redstone repeater||Second highest velocity.||Can only shoot 9 blocks, expensive, make sure the circuit doesn't activate it by accident.||This cannon is only used in an extreme hills biome. It only works if the cannon is on a cliff and the target is below it.|
|Daylight sensor||Good shooting, not too high velocity, can lob shots.||Make sure the sensor doesn't activate the circuit by accident by daylight, expensive.||This is a cannon for ground levels and it is good on any type of cannon (except of super large cannons which has a fuse range limit.)|
|Bed||Good shooting, really fast, medium-high angle.||Expensive, bigger cannon||This is good for attacking bigger castles, but has also a big range. One of the best mounting blocks.|
|Cake||Good shooting, medium angle, big range.||Expensive, cannot be retrieved.||This mounting block is good for attacking far targets if you have resources. It has smaller footprint which means that charge TNT can be closer to the shot than when using slabs, thus increasing the range.|
|Brewing Stand||High fire angle (similar to ladder), exceptional range, high velocity||Expensive, ineffective against level targets||Brewing Stands will shoot TNT slightly slower (and lower) than a ladder, but the difference doesn't show easily. Also allows you to brew regeneration potions while you shoot to help you recover the recoil damage.|
|Enchantment Table||High blast resistance, capable of striking all distances.||Very expensive.||Enchantment Tables fire shots a lot like slabs. Do note that the rotating book will not have any effect on the trajectory.|
|Stairs||High fire angle||Low velocity||Inverted stairs are useless; mounting a shot on one has a very high chance of blowing up your cannon and/or blasting the nearby landscape.|
An example cannon using dispensers
Note: the example cannon needs modifications to work in Bedrock Edition because dispensers still make TNT hop ending up with the first TNT destroying the machine. This can be fixed by putting that dispenser on a separate water flow that goes into the same block, also allowing for long range cannons.
Since the Redstone Update, redstone dispensers dispense ignited TNT instead of dropping it. This feature can be used to make better automatic TNT cannons.
The cannon to the right uses dispensers to release TNT into the water. When you press the button, first the long row of dispensers will fire. After a tick delay made the repeaters, leftmost dispenser will dispense the last moment before the TNT detonates, giving the shot a longer range. Note that the leftmost dispenser is higher than the other dispensers, and that the water should be flowing towards the front of the cannon. Dispensers dispense TNT without the characteristic "hop" of ignited TNT, which helps ensure the TNT will land in a much shorter radius than a conventional TNT cannon.
One of the smallest TNT cannons is this design by Mumbo Jumbo:
You can easily modify it to have another dispenser under the water facing up, and you can use a fence post with a pressure plate on top instead of a slab.
Pros: The time taken to reload TNT is at its absolute minimum. All a player has to do is to make sure the next shot is placed after the first shot is fired to make sure you don't destroy your cannon. This cannon requires little skill at all to fire; the hardest part will be placing the cannon a proper distance away to make sure you don't over/under-shoot. Such precision makes this cannon good for castle defense. Furthermore, through use of comparators, it is possible to make an easily aim-able dispenser-based cannon, and dispenser-based cannons do not blow themselves up if hit with another TNT cannon.
Cons: Dispensers and TNT are expensive. This type of cannon can never be quite as hardy as manual cannons, since dispensers can be blown up with TNT. Furthermore, if the cannon is left loaded and unattended, it is trivial to steal the TNT from its magazine. (This is also true of conventional auto-cannons.) Dispenser-based cannons with a one-block-wide water pool have also been known to blow themselves up, particularly if left firing automatically and unattended.
An automatic cannon can easily be made with this design. Substitute the button for redstone and hook the redstone up to a clock. Be careful not to set the clock under 4 seconds, the same time as it would take the TNT to explode. If the TNT is reloaded too quickly, the timing can cause the shot to detonate before the propellant does, destroying the entire cannon.
Reloading cannons are one of the most complex designs for beginners. However, as long as close attention is paid, for a first time build, it can be created in about 15–20 minutes depending on the size. Reloading cannons became obsolete when dispensers were added (except in the console editions).
The Good: Reloading TNT cannons can be customized just as easily as any other cannon (using fences, iron bars, glass panes, etc.). They can be shot several times with only a few seconds' interval in opposition to having to reload it several times like you'd have to do with a standard TNT cannon. Using the simple design, this TNT cannon can have up to 12 rounds in the magazine. If playing a fortress war server, this cannon can fire repeated shots which will demolish the enemies' buildings before they have time to stuff their ammunition into their puny and inferior weapons.
The Bad: Unfortunately, cannons of this variety are bulky and often unattractive. They require sand or gravel which are nonrenewable resources in survival mode. Added to that, it is tedious to reload the cannons whenever the magazines run out of ammo, however occasional that may be. With standard TNT cannons, if the 1-round magazine is destroyed, it is usually easily replaceable. This is not the case with the reloading kind, as the entire magazine will explode, destroying the weapon and all the redstone wiring with it—often killing you in the process. This type of cannon has also become redundant with the recent updates allowing automatic cannons utilizing dispensers to reload the tnt, which is easier and more compact to make.
Step 1. Make the framework. Begin with a standard design, but make a few modifications so that it looks like this. (Framework)
Then, you should get out a bucket of water and pour it down the slot like you would with any other design. Make sure to place a block hovering over the source block so you won't accidentally place something in it.
Toss in the wiring and you should get
Step 2. Make the magazine. This is where the TNT is going to be pushed and loaded into the firing chamber. It can store up to 12 rounds, but this one will be made with 7. Now we need to add pistons that will push the TNT towards the chamber, so place this following
By the end of that, the cannon should look like this.
Step 3. Work on the chamber. It's important to separate the chamber and magazine wiring from the TNT.
This weird design should go right above the chamber.
Now we're going to attach pistons to it that will shove the TNT into place
Step 4. Connect the chamber and magazine wiring. Add this to the framework
Step 5. Make a trigger. Go to this area.
Next, we need to replace redstone dust with a repeater.
We're almost done! Just place the igniter, now.
Step 6. Touch up & check for problems. I purposefully planted a few problems. First, some of the wiring is in the way of the barrel which will severely damage the range. We'll get to that later. More importantly, we need to move one of the repeaters ahead because it isn't providing enough power from where it is. Step 7. Load the magazine. Pay close attention to this part as you will have to do it every time you reload the magazine. Place the TNT into the magazine, from against the side-pushing pistons
…to the top-right edge of the chamber (NOT underneath the down-facing pistons, but right behind that area).
Now we need to put sand inside the magazine. You'll have to do this every time, as well. Put 8 stacks on top of the TNT pushed against the left-facing pistons.
And there you go! This is what you should see.
Step 8. Finish up. Yes, yes, I promised to fix the wiring in the way of the chamber. Here's the problem.
This is how you fix it. It's relatively simple. Make sure there're no more blocks in the way and you should get this when you fire.
This is the result of fixing the stuff in the way.
You may also want to put in a mount (as mentioned in a previous tutorial) to maximize performance! Here's a glass pane mount.
Additionally, consider covering the hull of the cannon to prevent opposing TNT cannons from blowing yours up!
Whatever you do, just make sure there's a door that leads to the magazine and that the sand-chamber is accessible from the top so you can reload it!
One more thing you can add is this piston. It will pull away the down-facing charge piston so that it isn't in the way when it's firing. And… that about wraps this tutorial up! Experiment with the cannon and test to see what mounts fit your needs. Make sure to pull the ammunition out of the magazine before you test blindly—I can imagine it wouldn't be much fun to watch something that took this long to build fly to pieces!
In order to avoid having to manually place TNT into every dispenser of a cannon, some more modern cannons have been designed to use a minecart or hopper system in order to distribute a large stack of TNT from one location such as a chest into all of a cannon's dispensers. There are issues to using such systems, primarily that nearby minecarts may break if the cannon's charge is too powerful, and the necessary redstone circuitry and hopper designs may be deemed too large or complex to be practical.
The Chaosrider design for the RRM6 Reloading WOLF uses minecarts and hoppers in a compact and semi-efficient manner:
Short-middle range cannons
You will need: 14 building blocks, 4 dispensers, 4 redstone dust, 6 redstone repeaters, 1 bucket of water, 1 button, 1 fence, 1 pressure plate and at least 4 TNT.
- Build a U-shaped frame using building blocks and dispensers, 1 block above the ground. It should be 6 blocks long and 3 blocks wide and the dispensers should be facing towards the center of the U shape.
- Add 3 blocks to the front of the U-shape. These will help guide the shell. Now add a final dispenser, facing towards the column of blocks.
- Add 3 blocks in the center of the U-shape, one block lower than it.
- Place a fence post and a pressure plate in front of the cannon, then add water running towards the pressure plate.
- Put redstone dust over the 2 dispensers (you will have to hold down shift key to do this) then over the furthest dispenser, put a block on top of it and then put a button on top of that block.
- Finally, add Redstone repeaters to the remaining spaces and put redstone dust on the conners. Every redstone repeater has a 4-tick delay except the Redstone repeater pointing to the upper dispenser.
- Finally, fill all 4 dispensers with TNT and give it a try!
Super Quick Raid Cannon
Pros: Very simple
Cons: No water means terrain damage. Can damage you a lot. Requires a bow
This cannon only requires a flame bow, 2 arrows, and 8 TNT (though you'll want to use either water or good armor). This was made by reddit user Zecon here
"The Pulverizer" - An Ultra Rapid Automatic Slime Cannon
A simple and compact cannon that can cause massive destruction. It utilizes an extremely quick timer to dispense and propel the primed TNT with the help of a slime block.
Vertical TNT cannon
This is a simple TNT cannon to rebuild. It is very efficient and shoots you very high in the air.
Downwards TNT Cannon
This cannon has very few uses, but can be used instead of a gravity fed TNT dropper.
3x9 Pressure Plate
Pros: easy to build, understand, and use
Cons: any mob can accidentally use
Pc minecraft tnt launcher
Everything will be fine, I whispered to her and began to kiss on the lips. She answered me and hugged me. I stroked her back, ass.How to Make a Rapid Fire TNT Cannon in Minecraft ( Machine Gun )
Zoya started up and the moans became louder. The hand began to rummage around the bed and I realized that she was looking for something. The glass toy glittered on the nightstand by the alarm clock. Reaching out, took it and sent it into his mouth, the cold glass quickly heated up.
When the toy entered the ass, Zoya whispered a drawn-out YES !.
You will also be interested:
- Small girlfriend tall boyfriend
- F100 triangulated 4 link
- Waterfront property bayside tx
- Concentra medical center appointment
- Carmax vancouver wa
- Andre drummond trade
- Griff divinity 2
- Weston manual food grinder
- Zillow parish, ny
- Best cheap resin printer
- Wii u controller
Florian saw Agnes's house, after which they entered it. Having managed to switch to you, they sat at the table and drank tea. Anessa was a lonely 40-year-old woman, her husband had found himself a city woman long ago and abandoned her.