Ender 5 heated bed

Ender 5 heated bed DEFAULT

[Sold out]Ender 3/Ender 3 Pro/ Ender 5 Heatbed Platform Kit Hot Plate with Cable Line




  • Ender-3
  • Ender-3 Pro
  • Ender-5

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LDH MonoLCD Resin 3D Printer


LDH MonoLCD Resin 3D Printer


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Sours: https://www.creality3dofficial.com/products/creality-enderhot-bed-board

Ender 5 Plus Hotbed Upgrade

The first step(no photos) was to remove the original insulation from the hotbed as well as the insulation I added.

I scraped it away with a plastic scraper to not damage the original heater in case I ever wanted to use it again. That left some adhesive residue which mostly came off after soaking it with water+dish soap and letting it sit, and scraping, and repeating. I removed the original thermistor and its kapton tape and removed a couple small remaining adhesive spots with Goo Gone adhesive remover.

Once that was done I removed the silicone with the scraper from around the power wires then desoldered those. I used a butane iron as it was able to get hotter than my normal iron. I melted some evil Lead solder into the existing solder on the board to reduce its melting point and as I was able to melt it I used a solder sucker to remove it. Eventually got the wires off and then used some desoldering braid to reduce the remaining solder. Then used the iron to make sure what was left was smooth.

Then cleaned the whole surface thoroughly with dish soap and water and then alcohol. 

I folded back about 1" of the covering of the adhesive on the new heater and carefully lined it up with the screw holes and applied it, then while lifting the heater slowly removed the rest of the covering of the adhesive while pressing the heater onto the bed being careful to not get any bubbles.

Then I left heavy things on it over night.

Then I put the metal crossbars back on and tightened them loosely.

Then I briefly heated the bed and tightened the cross bars some more.

Then I put a connector on the thermistor and matching the existing connector and set it on the printer. I hooked up an SSR(details to follow) and recompiled the firmware on the printer for a Type 11 thermistor which looks correct. I also took this time to upgrade to a max bed temp.

I then ran it up to C and carefully finished tightening the screws and let it cool and removed it to insulate and ground. The white bit is self fusing silicone to prevent the thermistor wires from chafing on the aluminium.

I pushed a little slack in the thermistor wires and slid the aluminium bracket under them rather than smashing them.

Sours: https://hackaday.io/project/enderplus-hotbed-upgrade
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Gulfcoast Robotics Aluminum Build Plate and Silicone Heater

Creality 3D Printers are notorious for having a warped heated bed. The Ender 3 and 5 series have it the worst, with seemingly zero quality control on what reaches the customers. Purchasing a glass plate has become almost a necessity, a band-aid fix to cover up underlying surface problems. With flatness tolerances ranging anywhere from +/- mm to an upwards of mm, it’s no surprise that many of these beds are practically unusable.

To address this, we’ll look at how to install the Gulfcoast Robotics Heated Bed Kit. It’s equipped with a precision CNC milled aluminum build plate, powerful 24V silicone heater, and all the conveniences to make it a simple drop-in upgrade.

Disclaimer: I work at Gulfcoast Robotics and have provided feedback in the design of this product. As this is my personal website however, the thoughts and opinions shared here are entirely my own.

Purchased Parts

xmm Heated Bed Upgrade - $

Checking Build Plate Flatness

Most of us don’t have the tools needed to measure flatness tolerances, they are expensive. The good news is, there are a couple DIY methods to figure out if your heated bed is warped.

However, testing while it’s installed on the 3D Printer won’t give us accurate results. Tension on the corners from the bed leveling screws can heavily skew the shape. As such, make sure to remove it from the machine before trying these out.

Ruler Method

You probably have a standard 12″ ruler somewhere nearby, wood or metal will work. Since the edges of a ruler are fairly straight, we can lay it across the surface and check for high or low spots.

Place a light behind the ruler, look from the front (eye level with the bed) and see if any light is visible.

Countertop Method

Kitchen and bathroom countertops are often made from granite, marble or some sort of stone. These should be extremely flat and will serve well as a reference point for comparisons.

Lay the bed face down on the counter, then press on various spots to see if there is any flex or wobbles.

These aren’t perfect tests by any means, but they are quick and dirty checks that anyone can do. For the most part, they will give us a reasonably good idea if the build plate is anything less than flat.

Heated Bed Installation

To get started, we first need to remove the original heated bed. Loosen the thumb wheels until they fall off, then set these and the leveling springs aside. Carefully lift the bed up from the Y axis and place it behind the 3D Printer for now.

Disassemble the Ender 3 Heated Bed

Next we need to disconnect the bed from the board. Open the electronics case by removing the (3) hex screws on top, two in the front corners and one in the middle rear. With these out, you can lift the lid and set it aside, taking care not to stress the cooling fan wires.

The bed’s (2) power cables are secured in a clamping terminal block. Using a small flat head screwdriver, loosen both set screws on top until the cables can freely slide out. While we’re in here, we also need to unplug the thermistor, the white 2-pin JST connector (circled below).

Pull the power cables and thermistor wiring out from the back of the Ender 3 to detach the heated bed.

Disconnect the Ender 3 Heated Bed

With the original heated bed removed, we can start preparing our replacement for installation.

Flip the build plate over with the bottom side facing up (countersunk holes facing down). At this point, it’s a good idea to clean the surface with isopropyl alcohol, just to remove any greasy fingerprint oils before we attach the heater.

Now position the silicone heater so that the holes match up with the build plate. There is only one correct orientation due to the additional hole for optional 3-point leveling support. Once it’s aligned, peel back the protective 3M adhesive backing and start applying the silicone heater with firm pressure.

Silicone Heater 3M Adhesive Backing

After the silicone heater has been mounted, we’re just about ready to install it on our Ender 3 / Ender 5 3D Printer. Before doing so however, we’ll take a quick look at the wiring.

The (2) white cables are for powering the heater. One comes pre-stripped while the other does not. Using wire strippers or a pair of scissors, strip off 1/2 inch of the insulation to match, exposing the wire strands for a solid connection.

Gulfcoast Robotics Silicone Heater Wiring

At this point, we’re ready to go ahead and start installing the new heated bed. For the sake of clarity, the connections are shown below on an empty board. Run the silicone heater’s power cables and thermistor wiring into the electronics case, routing them through the back of the lower frame.

The (2) white power cables are inserted into the HOTBED terminal block, then clamped down by tightening the set screws on top. In contrast to the original heated bed, there is no polarity with the silicone heater, meaning the cables have no +/- and are interchangeable. Give them a gentle tug to make sure they are properly seated.

The 2-pin JST thermistor connector plugs into the 2nd port from the right labeled THB.

BIGTREETECH SKR Mini E3 Board Wiring

These power cables have bootlace ferrules crimped on the stranded wire. This is not necessary, nor is it standard on Creality 3D Printers, but does offer a safer and more reliable connection.

With the silicone heater now wired up, the last step is mounting the heated bed.

As this kit does not come with additional hardware, we’ll reuse the M4x35mm bolts from the original build plate. Depending on the type of print surface it has, you may need to peel this up at the corners to reach them. At this point, everything goes back together the same way it came apart.

In my case, I am also using the Gulfcoast Robotics Y Carriage with a 3-Point leveling configuration. For those with the stock Y Carriage, ignore the center right hole and place a bolt, spring and thumb wheel at each of the 4 corners instead.

Gulfcoast Robotics 3-Point Heated Bed

After we’ve wrapped up the installation, it’s time to test. Power on the Ender 3 and preheat the bed from the LCD menu. If everything is connected properly, it should start warming up.

Firmware Update

Flashing a firmware update is not necessary to use this product. However, adjusting the TEMP_SENSOR_BED value may offer slight improvements to the temperature readings.

Ender 3 firmware is configured to use a value of “1” (EPCOS) whereas this silicone heater works best with a value of “11” (NTC). As these are both K thermistors with K pull-up resistors, they have similar results, but the temperatures reported may be a few degrees off.

In the Marlin firmware Configuration.h file, locate the line “#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED” under the “Thermal Settings”. After this value is changed from “1” to “11”, recompile the firmware and flash it to the board.

Further Improvements

For most owners, a precision milled CNC plate with tight flatness tolerances will be more than enough. This solves the biggest problem with Ender 3 and Ender 5 3D Printers, a bowed print surface. We can however take this a step further with other heated bed upgrades.

3-Point Leveling

You might have noticed the Gulfcoast Robotics Heated Bed supports 3-Point bed leveling. This is an entirely optional feature, but one that improves the leveling process as a whole.

Back in grade school, geometry class taught us that a plane is defined by 3 points. So why does almost every 3D Printer come with 4 point leveling? Manufacturers like Creality know their beds are warped, but adding an extra leveling point can force it into a semi-flat, somewhat usable shape.

3-Point Leveling won’t fare well with a warped bed for obvious reasons, but that’s not a problem with this ultra flat build plate. We do however need a compatible Y Carriage plate to take advantage of this feature.

Guide: How to Upgrade the Y-Carriage Plate (Ender-3)

Heated Bed Insulation

The silicone heater preheats faster than the original circuit board heater (PCB), but what if we could speed that up even more, cutting it down to a fraction of the time?

Since heat rises, most of the warmth gets transferred into the build plate, but we can still lose a lot of it from the bottom. By insulating the underside, we can trap the heat and force it to rise as well. This will decrease the duration it takes to reach and maintain temperature.


Cork is a tried and true material for insulating heated beds. It’s cheap, environmentally friendly and withstands temperatures up to C. Corkboard tiles average around $1 each and can be mounted using a variety of adhesives.

Foam Foil

A more recent addition to the market, Foam Foil is a decent alternative that’s ready made for 3D Printers. It’s lightweight and heat resistant, plus it comes with a pre-applied adhesive backing. You still have to cut holes for the bed leveling screws, but it’s otherwise ready to use.

Sours: https://letsprint3d.net/how-to-install-the-gulfcoast-robotics-heated-bed-ender/

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Heated bed 5 ender

Well, well, mister patient. Then I will ask you to lie down. I lay on my back and completely threw off the blanket, completely forgetting that the member was petrified in the morning riser. Mom for a second looked from the abdomen to the groin and continued the examination.

Enclosed Ender 5 for high temp filaments - Part 1

They put him on the bed, and I stood and watched as the poor guy turned into a tight cocoon, could not even hum. He was helpless and could not change anything, the guy was completely at the mercy of these strict women, covered in shiny skin. I asked if I could have fun with him.

Katya said of course. And without hesitation, I sat on his face, literally pressing his face into my crotch and squeezed my head with my thighs so as not to.

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